The Day I Met Guloush

Freya Stark once said, "When I travel, I have no idea what's in store for me, but if I'm wise and understand the art of travel, I let myself go into the stream of the unknown and accept whatever comes in the spirit". I agree 100% but I have to say that I owe part of my survival, or rather, my sanity, to the wonderful Czech people who I meet everyday on the street. If I'm lost which (ask Kyle) I frequently am, I simply go up to random people and ask if they speak English. This is actually quite a silly question because even if they say no I just pull out my map and we figure it out together. Jesus, thank you for creating us to be relational!!!

I had the most delicious lunch today and it changed my life forever....ok maybe it wasn't life changing but it was pretty darn close! Today was the coldest day so far and I couldn't warm up no matter what I did....until Guloush. I capitalize it because it deserves that kind of respect...like a holiday or my last name. I can't even begin to explain how tasty this dish was...it was even BEEF Guloush and I don't usually like red meat. The flavor was heavenly....the meat tender and juicy....the potato dumplings moist and...dumpling-like. I literally laughed out loud after the first bite because it was so delightful. One of the highlights of my trip--FOR SURE! A man at the table next to me was eating it too and he wasn't moaning or laughing or inhaling it like I was so I assume it's always this good. Man! This country's been holding out on me!!

Let me rewind to this morning: First stop, Charles Bridge. Before I crossed the bridge I walked to the top of the tower and had a beautiful view of Mala Strana and Stare Mesto. While I was at the top I got out my literary guide (which is a book I got that takes different areas of Prague and gives a portion of a piece of literature from a Czech author that is about that part of the city...an English majors dream!) and read Frantisek Langer's short story "The Sword of St. Wenceslas". It was a paradisaical moment. Truly priceless. As I walked across the bridge Langer's words rang true: "...as you walk across the bridge, it speaks to you like a chronicle in stone, and the sound of each footfall is like a line from that history" (60).

Under the bridge there is a little idyllic island called Kampa which is Latin for field as Kampa was once used for farming. Now it is a peaceful little community with cobblestone streets and coffee shops. I got a cup of mint tea and read a piece from Jindriska Smetanova.

Across from the coffee shop was a sculpture by Czech artist David Cerny. His work is controversial and very satirical. This piece is called "Proudy" which is translated to...um...well..."Piss". The shape that the men are urinating on actually an outline of the Czech Republic and they are spelling out famous quotations from Czech literature with their pee (the sculpture is computerized and moves). I guess that's one way to express your politics!

Next stop...the John Lennon wall. When Lennon died in 1980 he became a hero to the Czech youth. Police tried to whitewash it several time but it never last more than a day so they finally gave up. I feel in love with this wall. It is one of the most beautiful pieces of art I have ever seen. There is a sculpture of John Lennon's head in the middle and they graffiti covering the rest of the wall. The graffiti consists of sketches of Lennon, inspirational quotes, Beattles lyrics, and names of visitors. I walked up and down the wall reading the words that made up this incredible story of emotions. I love the idea that so many people from so many different places of the world and for some many years have written their hearts upon a wall, expressing their beliefs with hope of a better tomorrow. I have never wanted a sharpie so badly in my whole life!


Next I went to the miniature museum where they have weirdo things like the Lord's Prayer written on a strand of hair...its CRAZY!!!!!! Next door was the Strahov Library which was stunning with a theology hall and philosophy hall adorned with magnificent frescoes on the ceiling. On a different note, on the way out there is this long brown leathery thing and according to my guidebook, if you ask the attendant they will tell you its a petrified elephant trunk. So...of course...I did and she told me it was a trunk. The reality, however, is that it is a whale penis!!!! Ok come on...I'm not the only one who thinks thats funny (and plus I had to mention a penis sometime in my blog as not to leave Katie on her own with Grandma...long family story, don't ask). Sidenote: it was "FORBIDDEN" to take pictures so I had to be sneaky

I was too tired to go the castle today...maybe tomorrow. Love you all